Walking the GR®21 Trail in 9 days along the Normandy coast

The GR21, celebrated as the French people’s favourite hiking trail in 2020, is a remarkable long-distance path that meanders along the stunning Alabaster Coast in Normandy. Spanning approximately 190 km from Le Tréport to Le Havre, this trail features breathtaking landscapes that include dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and quaint villages steeped in history.

French adventure bloggers Hellolaroux took on the challenge of hiking this magnificent route, eager to share their experiences and the allure of the GR21. As they traversed the trail, they discovered not only the natural beauty of the region but also the rich cultural heritage that makes Normandy such a unique destination in France.

Majestic cliffs and coastal landscapes

While Étretat and its iconic arches are famous worldwide, the Alabaster Coast boasts a wealth of breathtaking vistas waiting to be discovered along its stunning cliffside trail. Recognised as the favourite GR® hiking route among the French, this remarkable pathway remains a hidden gem for many international travelers. Most visitors experience only its most celebrated stretch, from Fecamp to Etretat. However, the full beauty of this dramatic coastline unfolds with every step, revealing new panoramas that inspire awe. Take a deep breath and let the peacefulness of the cliffs envelop you in their timeless embrace.

There is something profoundly soothing about coastal hikes. Throughout much of the journey, the coastal landscapes unfold with a sense of wonder and admiration. It feels like walking a delicate line, balancing between land and sea, with the English Channel as a cherished companion on this adventure. Each step offers a new perspective, where the ever-changing seascape and dramatic cliffs create a captivating backdrop, inviting exploration and reflection.

Quaint towns and coastal villages

Over the course of a 9-day walking adventure, charming towns were discovered along the way. Each town boasts its own unique character, yet they all share the common trait of having developed within the sheltered valleys. Highlights include Le Tréport and Dieppe, which enchant visitors with their panoramic terraces and lovely atmosphere. In Criel-sur-Mer, the picturesque row of beach huts with their vibrant rainbow roofs creates an irresistible scene for photography enthusiasts.

Once a thriving fishing port known for its cod (morue) industry, Fécamp is dominated by Cap Fagnet, the highest point of the Alabaster Coast. This beautiful maritime town is recognised as a City of Art and History, showcasing its rich cultural heritage. A standout attraction is the Palais Bénédictine, renowned for its distinctive architecture that is well worth a visit. Just a little further along lies Yport, which captures the essence of a perfect Norman postcard with its charming coastal scenery.

Recognised as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France®, Veules-les-Roses is also among the favourite stops along the way. An unparalleled tranquility envelops this village, steeped in a romantic atmosphere. Victor Hugo himself was captivated by its charm, perhaps drawn in by the romance of the quaint half-timbered houses lining the banks of France’s smallest river or the unforgettable sunsets that paint the sky. The reasons may remain a mystery, but one thing is certain: it’s impossible not to succumb to the allure of Veules-les-Roses.

Finally, how can one speak of the GR®21 without mentioning the enchanting town of Étretat? This destination is not just famed for its breathtaking cliffs, which soar majestically above the sea, but it also embodies a unique way of life. Étretat’s charm lies in its vibrant atmosphere, where the fresh sea breeze mingles with the sounds of waves crashing against the rocks, creating a symphony of nature that invites exploration and reflection.

Local treasures and heartfelt hospitality of Normandy

When embarking on consecutive days of hiking, restorative sleep becomes essential. Several accommodation we encountered truly stood out. Among them, the Petites Suites Dieppoises impressed with their unique decor and wonderfully cosy atmosphere. Here, guests can enjoy complete independence, making it an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area of Dieppe. Another delightful surprise awaited at le Clos des Effraies, where hosts Isabelle and Bruno welcomed us like old friends, ensuring a warm and inviting stay. These charming havens provide the perfect blend of comfort and hospitality, enhancing the overall experience of the journey.

For those who prefer hotels, a stay at the Relais Hôtelier Douce France in Veules-les-Roses is a must. This historic building, which once served as a coaching inn, offers a unique charm, especially as the village transforms in the evening when peace returns. However, the real gem is undoubtedly the Donjon Domaine Saint Clair****. Nestled high above Étretat, this exceptional hotel provides breathtaking views and a gastronomic dining experience. A night here guarantees not just a restful stay but also an opportunity to immerse oneself in the stunning beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Le Havre: an unexpected surprise along the journey

For curious travellers, Le Havre presents a captivating discovery after a hike. This UNESCO-listed city, known as the “Gateway to the Ocean,” has risen from the ruins of World War II to become a modern architectural gem. Visitors can explore striking landmarks such as Le Volcan, a unique cultural centre, and the Museum of Modern Art (MuMa), which houses an impressive collection. The Bains des Docks showcase contemporary design, while the rebuilt town centre, crafted by architect Auguste Perret, reflects resilience and creativity. The vibrant Catène de Conteneurs, a colourful symbol of the city, adds to its charm.

At the end of the day, the main beach becomes a gathering place for many locals in Le Havre. Under the #Up3 artwork, spectators watch as container ships perform a strangely captivating ballet. The sun-kissed, rust-red concrete façades leave a lasting impression. As the locals return to their homes, there’s an opportunity to enjoy one last pint to celebrate the conclusion of this wonderful adventure. Here, the hike along the coastal path comes to an end.

GR® is a registered trademark of the French Hiking Federation (FFRandonnée) that designates trails identified by the name “GR®,” marked with white and red signage. These trails are creations of the FFRandonnée. Unauthorized reproduction of the GR® trademark and its routes constitutes infringement and is subject to legal action.

How to get to Le Treport by train?