Set in the beautiful hills known as Les Alpes Mancelles, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei is a picturesque village officially listed among the ‘most beautiful villages in France’ (Les Plus Beaux Villages de France). This village was much loved by artists such as Corot and Courbet and pre-Impressionist landscape painters for its peace and serenity.
One of France’s prettiest villages
Time appears to have stood still at Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, on Normandy’s now quiet southern border. The most picturesque of medieval chapels looks swamped by the large meadow surrounding it, down close to the Sarthe river, which meanders peacefully by. The 11th-century Romanesque church, perched above the river, contains beautiful frescoes. There’s also the so-called miraculous fountain to discover. At this spot, so the story goes, the thirsty seventh-century Saint-Céneri and his disciple were delighted to see fresh water spring up in front of them. In addition, legend had it that this water had the ability to cure eye problems
A painter’s retreat
It’s no surprise that this small, lesser-known village, not far from the historic town of Alençon, attracted many painters. Run by the two Moisy sisters in the latter part of the 19th century, the Auberge des Sœurs Moisy was a place where renowned artists liked to come to rest as well as to paint. This inn’s most original feature is its celebrated Salle des Décapités, decorated with an intriguing panoply of black heads drawn in profile. The inn now welcomes visitors as an art museum.
What to see and do in Saint-Céneri
- The 11th-century church, a listed historic monument with its intact frescoes and panoramic view over the valley
- The Chapelle du Petit Saint-Céneri (14th century), in the middle of the meadow
- The Miraculous Fountain: said to have gushed forth after the prayers of a thirsty Saint-Céneri. Its water is said to have the power to cure certain eye diseases.
- The remains of the medieval castle (11th century)
- The Auberge des Sœurs Moisy and its famous decapitation room, where portraits of visiting artists can be seen directly on the walls.
- Le Pont sur Sarthe: look for the nail on the low stone wall that marks the border between Normandy and the Loire Valley region.
- Les Rencontres de Saint-Céneri: This painting festival attracts 10,000 visitors each year at Whitsun.
The Auberge de la Vallée, the Taverne Giroise, the Auberge des Peintres and the Échoppe Gourmande all serve local cuisine using local produce.
The bees guard the church
As you approach the church of Saint-Céneri, which overlooks the valley, you’ll see bees busy in the old stones. Here since the 11th century, they are the guardians of this sacred site. It is said that they attacked the soldiers of the King of France who, in order to escape, threw themselves from the top of the rocks into the Sarthe. Their honey has never been found.
A different way to discover Normandy
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Normandy Experiences are local gems that add meaning to your trip. You’ll meet Normandy people who are truly passionate about what they do.
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