Hiking the GR®22 Trail: a green escape in the Orne

Pack your bags for an inspiring hiking adventure in the heart of the Orne! Explore the breathtaking landscapes and hidden gems of this lesser-known region of Normandy. Join two passionate French bloggers as they share their memorable trek through Alençon, Bagnoles-de-l’Orne, Domfront and the Andaines Forest, uncovering the beauty and charm of Orne along the way.

Inspired by Amélie, Blogger of Hellolaroux

Alençon

Arriving in Alençon provides the perfect opportunity to explore this charming city, known for its exquisite lace. As the capital of the department, we had no preconceived images of what to expect, making our experience even more delightful. Our adventure began with a stroll around the magnificent Basilica of Notre-Dame, a stunning emblem of Alençon and listed Historical Monument. It was here that Saint Thérèse was baptised, adding a layer of historical significance to our visit and further enhancing our appreciation for this beautiful city.

Highlights of our Alençon adventure

• We particularly enjoyed the Musée des Beaux-Arts et de la Dentelle, which features a wonderful space dedicated to the unique craft of Alençon lace. Here, you can learn about its intricate creation process and rich history. Don’t miss the upper floor dedicated to Cambodia, showcasing the incredible collection of Adhémard Leclère, who spent years exploring Asia.
• Just a stone’s throw away, the Alençon library is an unusual gem housed in a former Jesuit church, featuring a wooden interior and distinctive baroque style.
• Next, we were drawn to the imposing Château des Ducs d’Alençon, although sadly, it’s not open for visits. Located near the Saint-Léonard district, the area echoes with medieval charm, featuring timber-framed houses, delightful narrow streets, and hidden courtyards. The atmosphere in Alençon is wonderfully serene, and we’re certain we’ll return.

The Château de Carrouges

Our trip continues with a breath of fresh air in the Écouves forest as we make our way to the Château de Carrouges. Nestled in the Norman bocage, just outside the village, the château spans an impressive 10 hectares. We take our time exploring its iconic keep, the various royal rooms, and the remarkable gardens. Originally a stronghold during the Hundred Years’ War, it was transformed into a noble residence over four centuries. The Château de Carrouges is one of the few surviving examples of Renaissance architecture in Normandy and is a must-see along the GR®22 trail that winds through the Orne.

Bagnoles-de-l’Orne

As we ventured inland, we were pleasantly surprised to discover a district with Belle Époque architecture, typically found in seaside resorts throughout Normandy, right in the heart of the Orne countryside. It just goes to show that surprises often lie where you least expect them. Bagnoles-de-l’Orne is one of the most significant spa towns in the west, attracting wealthy families who built their holiday homes here, much like the coastal villas.

This iconic area was developed under the vision of Albert Christophle who played a key role in transforming Bagnoles-de-l’Orne into a fashionable resort. Once again, we were charmed by Bagnoles-de-l’Orne, a green destination committed to sustainable and slow tourism.

Domfront

All towns perched on rocky outcrops have a certain mysterious charm, and Domfront is no exception. This quaint town seems to serve as a watchtower over the bocage, strategically positioned at the crossroads of the former duchies of Normandy, Anjou, and Maine, hinting at its significant role during the Middle Ages. Today, visitors can explore the ruins of its castle and wander through charming narrow streets that retain the architecture of yesteryear. One particularly intriguing feature is the unusual Église Saint-Julien, which, with its reinforced concrete exterior, piques curiosity, but it’s the stunning Byzantine-style interior that truly captivates.

The Andaine Forest

Close your eyes and breathe deeply. As you exhale, feel the tranquility of the Andaines Forest envelop you, with the scent of damp ferns filling the air and the gentle wind rustling through the treetops. On our last leg of the GR®22, we discovered a landscape awash in vibrant greens, characteristic of the Orne region, home to the Normandy-Maine Regional Park and its natural wonders. The Andaines Forest, often referred to as the green lung of the area, is steeped in mystery and folklore. As we wandered through its serene paths, we couldn’t help but be drawn into its enchanting legends, including the captivating tale of the fairy Gisèle.

A selection of addresses along the route, chosen by Normandy Tourism

GR® is a registered trademark of FFRandonnée ( French Hiking Federation) , which designates the routes identified by the name “GR®,” marked with white and red signs. These routes have been created by FFRandonnée. Unauthorized reproduction of these routes, as well as the GR® trademark, constitutes an infringement that may lead to legal action.

How to get to Alençon by train?