The return of scallop fishing boats to Port-en-Bessin

The picturesque fishing port of Port-en-Bessin in the Calvados département is built around a sheltered natural harbour between two cliffs. The town has an unmatched reputation for providing some of the area’s best scallops, and visiting between 1 October and 15 May is the perfect time to experience the ultimate local spectacle, the return of scallop fishing boats to the harbour to land their catch! Everything about Port-en-Bessin makes you want to slow down; the squawk of seagulls, the clack of bobbing boat masts, the bracing sea air, the sight of fishing nets and anchors scattered around the quays… all while delving deeper into the maritime traditions of this quintessential Normandy seaside town.

A perfectly organised live show

From November to March

Every day, during the scallop harvest season, the harbour of Port-en-Bessin becomes the stage of a very special ballet. Shortly before high tide, the horizon comes alive with about a hundred fishing boats (mainly under 16 metre vessels) silently returning from the sea into the outer harbour, guarded by two lighthouses. As they wait for the locks to open, the boats skillfully moor together to avoid drifting. From the quayside, locals and tourists enjoy the plunging views down on the ships, sensing the excitement of this well-organised ritual. On board, fishermen in slick yellow and blue outfits are busy cleaning the shells and packing them into crates. The mood is energetic and joyful.  

The locks open at last! The fleet can now access the enclosed wet docks on shore and the fishermen can off-load their precious catch of the day. The ballet of colourful boats speeds up. One after the other, they rush to moor. The arrival of the vessels, with their scallop-filled holds, immediately generates a buzz on the wharf as more sailors arrive to haul in the catch as quickly as possible. A race against time begins. A meticulously orchestrated team effort will allow the succulent scallops to be transported and on sale, still alive, in markets all over France within 24 hours. Further along the dock, other boats berth directly at the auction market where scallops are weighed and are sold to wholesalers. For untold generations, scallop fishing has been the main activity of Port-en-Bessin and a flagship product for Normandy. Sustainable and seasonal, fishing here remains resolutely oriented towards the preservation of maritime resources.  

From the quayside, the entire process is carried out under the watchful eyes of observers of all generations who become immersed in the vibrant atmosphere and unique spirit of this coastal town.  Without interrupting the fishermen in action, it is a perfect opportunity for fish lovers to buy high-quality, freshly caught scallops straight from boats at the pier and, at an unbeatable price. Freshness guaranteed!

Normandy scallops: a refined and delicate dish

Scallops are known in French as coquilles Saint-Jacques (St James scallops). The Normandy king scallop, awarded the Red Label quality mark, offers two very refined flavours in one shell: the firm and white meat called the ‘scallop’, and the soft and brightly colored roe called the ‘coral’. Normandy scallops are famous for the delicate, sweet taste of the white nut and its subtle hazelnut overtone, set off by the stronger fishy taste of the coral. Raw or cooked, there are many ways to enjoy this culinary delicacy; it can be served raw as a tartare or carpaccio, or seared in butter, poached, garnished or served au gratin to name but a few examples.

Every autumn, Port-en-Bessin hosts Le Goût du Large, a scallop and seafood festival celebrating the town’s rich fishing heritage. People of all backgrounds are welcomed by local revelers to enjoy traditional music and sea shanties, as well as dine on delicious scallop dishes prepared by restaurants along the quayside. Visitors can also enjoy seeing tall ships in the harbour and entertainment put on especially for the festival.