Cycling has taken the world by storm, and what better way to embrace the trend than with a cycling trip through Normandy’s wild heart? Winding through the breathtaking landscapes of Suisse Normande, the Vélo Francette offers the perfect blend of adventure and serenity. Safe, scenic, and full of surprises, this route from Ouistreham to La Rochelle is a dream for those craving freedom on two wheels. So, saddle up and let the journey begin!
What we loved about it
What makes this cycling route so special? It perfectly blends preserved nature, heritage, and the art of living. Named for its dramatic, rolling landscapes reminiscent of Switzerland—but with a charming Norman twist—Suisse Normande offers an unforgettable cycling experience.
The picturesque villages, with their quaint stone houses, provide ideal spots to pause and enjoy the surroundings, while friendly locals share their stories and insights about the region.
Day 1: From Caen to Thury-Harcourt (28 km) on the Suisse Normande greenway
Starting from Caen train station, the journey begins. Heading towards the Suisse Normande, it’s worth noting that this route also provides easy access to Ouistreham beach, just 15 kilometres along the canal, a trip for another time. The cycling route is easily accessible from the station, leading towards the Caen racecourse, the city’s green lung. The bike path runs along the straight track in front of the racecourse grandstand, before guiding cyclists onto the famous greenway of the Suisse Normande.
Numerous facilities along the route encourage cyclists to take a leisurely picnic, making this greenway a perfect escape for families and friends starting from Caen. As the journey unfolds, level crossings along the railway serve as nostalgic reminders of the path’s historical significance. An old train carriage comes into view, sparking curiosity and imagination. Crossing over the Orne River, we glide beneath a canopy of trees, with the serene beauty of nature enveloping us, swiftly forgetting that just moments before, we were amidst the bustling heart of Caen.
Frequent stops to marvel at the stunning landscapes
As for the route, it’s mostly a straight shot, or nearly so. There’s no rush, and every picturesque spot calls for a stop, which is almost every ten minutes. The landscape is a delightful blend of forests, rivers, and rocky outcrops. Along the way, caution signs warn of potential rockfalls, adding a sense of adventure to the ride. After 28 kilometers, Thury-Harcourt awaits. But just before reaching the town, a delightful surprise emerges: a tunnel dedicated to the greenway, sheltering… bats!
A well-deserved stop is made at the Thury Plein Air leisure base for a refreshing drink. Here, kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles are available for rental, providing ample opportunities for adventure. The view from the terrace is delightful, adding to the experience. Just in time before the storm rolls in, it’s off to the Relais de la Poste for an overnight stay. This hotel in Thury-Harcourt proudly carries the Accueil Vélo label, ensuring high-quality services tailored for cycling tourists. With the bikes safely stored away, there’s peace of mind for a restful night ahead.
Where to Sleep?
- Le Relais de la Poste, in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom, is a charming 3-star hotel located in the heart of the town. It offers a variety of rooms and its own restaurant, Au Fil du Temps.
- Le Cormoran, also in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom, is a spacious rental accommodation. With two bedrooms and direct access to the greenway, it’s an ideal choice for cyclists.
- La Cigogne, in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom, features three bedrooms and is situated along the Orne River, right in the heart of the town.
- La ferme de la Gronde in Esson is a delightful stone guesthouse with two rooms, just a short distance from Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom and the greenway.
- Camping de la Vallée du Traspy, located at the edge of the Traspy Lake in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom, offers a convenient spot to spend the night if you’re traveling with a tent.
- Le Coq Au Vert in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom is a certified “Accueil Vélo” gîte with four bedrooms, located in the Suisse Normande region, 10 minutes from Clécy.
- The Chalet is a house also in the Suisse Normande region, certified “Accueil Vélo” and situated on the edge of the Vélo Francette greenway, offering hiking trails with access to the GR de Pays long-distance footpath and a canoe/kayak center nearby.
Other accommodation are available in the area:
suisse-normande-tourisme.com/en/sports-activities/outdoor-sports/bike
Where to Eat?
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- Auberge Le P’tit Cardinal, in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom invites you to savour authentic Norman flavours with a diverse menu crafted from fresh, seasonal ingredients.
- L’Anacapri, is a warm and welcoming brasserie and pizzeria, perfect for a relaxed meal in the heart of Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom.
- A La Cope, showcases the best of local produce with a varied menu that highlights Normandy’s rich culinary heritage.
- Au Fil du Temps, the restaurant at Relais de la Poste, offers a charming dining experience in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom.
- La Ferme de la Gronde in Esson invites you to enjoy an authentic farm-to-table experience with its table d’hôtes, available by reservation.
- Le Camping du Traspy, in Thury-Harcourt-Le-Hom enhances your stay with Le Bistrot, its inviting on-site restaurant.
Day 2: From Thury-Harcourt to Flers via La Roche d’Oëtre (54 km)
After a hearty breakfast, a stop at the ruins of Thury-Harcourt Castle offers a glimpse into the past before setting off towards Flers station. The ever-changing weather adds to the adventure, bringing unexpected twists to the journey. With the right gear to stay dry, the ride continues. The route via La Roche d’Oëtre offers a scenic alternative, though it’s also possible to reach Flers from Condé-sur-Noireau. Along the way, cows dot the landscape, and fellow cyclists share the road. One intrepid traveller is heading all the way to Asia, proof that a cycling holiday isn’t just about the ride, but also the inspiring encounters along the way.
A little further along, a sign for Brasserie de la Lie comes into view—this local organic brewery in Saint-Rémy-sur-Orne is well worth a short detour. Just a kilometre off the greenway, it’s the perfect stop to pick up a few supplies. The only challenge? Finding space in the panniers for these tasty treats, naturally, to be enjoyed in moderation. Back on the trail, the route crosses the Viaduc de Clécy, where a few climbers are preparing to descend from the bridge. Outdoor activities are everywhere here, adding to the region’s adventurous spirit.
An exceptional panorama
The route then follows shared roads, leading to the charming village of Pont-d’Ouilly. Here, it’s easy to linger, a riverside guinguette offers a relaxed spot for lunch, while water sports provide an active way to enjoy the surroundings. A stop at a local grocery shop, stocked with regional specialities, makes for the perfect picnic selection. The journey continues towards La Roche d’Oëtre, where a well-earned break awaits. The goat’s cheese, picked up from la Ferme d’Antan in nearby Rouvrou, is the perfect reward after the effort of the climb. And the view? Absolutely breathtaking, a true ‘wow’ effect! Thoughtfully designed facilities provide the perfect sheltered spot to enjoy lunch while soaking in the spectacular panorama.
Time to hit the road again, bound for Flers. Along the way, a series of charming villages unfolds, but one in particular catches the eye: La Carneille. Nestled in the heart of Suisse Normande, this village is a picture-perfect gem with its narrow lanes, historic church, and traditional washhouse—exactly the kind of place to fall in love with. A stop at La Maison du Paysage in Bréel offers a welcome break. With its nature-inspired café and Accueil Vélo label, it’s a haven for cyclists. Here, a group of riders from Mayenne enthusiastically recommends continuing the journey along La Vélo Francette. A tempting idea—but that adventure will have to wait for another time, as the train won’t! The final stretch turns into a sprint, with just enough time to grab train tickets before departure. Fifteen minutes later, the journey home begins—thrilled by the trip, already dreaming of the next one!
Where to Eat?
L’Epicerie du Coing, in Pont-d’Ouilly is perfect for enjoying local, seasonal products for a delightful picnic.
L’Ambroisie, also in Pont-d’Ouilly, offers a bistronomic dining experience that combines seasonal ingredients with a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Le Relais du Commerce, is a traditional hotel-restaurant in Pont-d’Ouilly, serving classic dishes that showcase the region’s culinary heritage.
L’Atelier du Goût, in Pont-d’Ouilly provides a takeaway menu featuring snacks like pizza and burgers, perfect for those on the go.
Le Caillou, is a restaurant overlooking the stunning natural site of La Roche d’Oëtre, offering 100% homemade dishes made from fresh, local ingredients.
La Maison du Paysage in Bréel features a nature café that serves beverages, farm-made ice creams, and other local products, making it a lovely spot to relax.
How to get to Caen by train?
| By train | From Paris |
|---|---|
| Travel Time | 1 hour 54 minutes (shortest journey) |
| Price | Starting from €16 per person. Children aged 4-12 benefit from a 50% discount on the adult ticket price. Children under 4 years old travel for free (on an adult’s lap). If you would like a reserved seat for your child, consider opting for the kids package. |
| Validity Period | All Year round |
| Details | Paris > Caen Book my ticket |
Practical Information
Tips before a Cycling Trip or Holiday
Bring your own bike on the train
Certain visitor sites, museums, tourist offices, and activity providers along the route offer the low-carbon Normandy rate for visitors arriving by train, coach, or bicycle. For more information, please check with specific locations.
Would you like to experience the same holiday?
Embark on an exhilarating journey along the Vélo Francette cycling route, where the breathtaking landscapes of Suisse Normande await.
2 days
Caen Station (Departure)
Flers Station (Arrival)
82 km
Difficulty Level: 2/5
Travelling to Caen by train
Reduces your cabon footprint to 0.7 kg of CO2 per person, while traveling by car produces 50 kg of CO2.
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