Cycling from Gisors to Dieppe along the Avenue Verte London-Paris®

My friends and I have planned a four-day cycling trip along the Avenue Verte London – Paris®, following the route through the Epte Valley. The route took us past the beautiful manor houses and châteaux of the valley, where we sampled the delicious produce of Pays de Bray and admired the impressive Alabaster Coast cliffs.

In terms of logistics, we rented electric bikes which were delivered to Gisors station — the starting point of our trip. The rental company picked up the bikes at the end of our journey in Dieppe.

Day 1: From Gisors to Gournay-en-Bray (41 km)

To kick off this exciting new adventure, we took a Nomad coach from Évreux to Gisors. Booking was very easy using the Atoumod m-Ticket app. Upon arrival in Gisors, at the foot of the castle, we went to the Vexin Normand Tourist Office, which has been awarded the ‘Accueil Vélo’ label. Our bikes, which had been delivered by the rental company DolceVia, were waiting for us there. Equipped with panniers, phone holders and connected locks, we unlocked the bikes using a dedicated app.

We stopped in the town centre to buy a picnic, which we enjoyed in the grounds of the 11th-century Gisors Castle. The remarkably well-preserved fortified castle and its keep are well worth a visit.

After lunch, we set off along the route marked with Avenue Verte London–Paris signs. We cycled along a shared road until we arrived in Gournay-en-Bray. We safely crossed the small country roads, climbing up the Epte Valley, which opens out between the wooded hills of the Norman Vexin and the Picardy Plateau. We cycled through beautiful fields of flax and cereals.

Along the way, we passed typical Brayon farms. In Amécourt, one farm catches our eye thanks to its large gate and red brick and flint walls. This is the Domaine du Patis, a working farm which also offers accommodation for cyclists. The owner, Françoise, is delighted to tell us the history of the farm.

As we approach Neuf-Marché, where the Eure, Oise and Seine-Maritime departments meet, we climb a few small hills. After Neuf-Marché, we decide to deviate from the route and head for Mont Sainte-Hélène in Saint-Pierre-les-Gros. The climb offers impressive views of the Epte, the Pays de Bray region and the Larris and Tourbières Regional Nature Reserve. It is interesting to note that we are in the Pays de Bray and that the term ‘Bray’ means ‘wet land’ in Old French.

From the top of the 190-metre-high hill, we discover an orientation table and a ceramic-covered Calvary created by the Brayon artists Juliette and Jacques Damville. What an unexpected discovery!

We then head downhill towards Saint-Germer-de-Fly, a small village that is also well worth a visit. Its abbey church and its remarkable Sainte-Chapelle, which houses stained glass windows reminiscent of those in the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, are stunning!

Our journey then continues along a greenway lined with hedgerows and orchards to our destination for the day: Gournay-en-Bray. Before checking in to the Hôtel Saint-Aubin, we stop by the Tourist Office, which is housed in a former 17th-century Capuchin monastery.
In the square, we see an impressive bell that catches our attention. We learn that it was made in Villedieu-les-Poêles, a town in Normandy renowned for its foundries.

Our hotel will keep our bikes safe and we can enjoy Indian specialities on site to prepare for the next day of our adventure.

Day 2: From Gournay-en-Bray to Forges-les-Eaux (31 km)

After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we collect our bikes from the bike room and head back into the centre of Gournay-en-Bray. It’s Tuesday, which means it’s market day. We take this opportunity to visit the stalls of Normandy’s cheese producers, sampling the heart-shaped Neufchâtel, creamy Gournay and Fleur de Lin cheeses. These fresh products, accompanied by good bread, seasonal fruit, and vegetables, will make up our picnic for the day.

With our baskets filled to the brim, we set off under threatening skies and pass through the Portes de Paris, near the poultry market. This market is particularly renowned for the presence of a breeder of Poule de Gournay, a local breed of hen with magnificent black-and-white speckled plumage that is known for being an excellent layer. Its eggs are distinctive for their very white shells.

A few drops of rain begin to fall, but this does not stop us from continuing towards Forges-les-Eaux along small country roads. The green, rural landscape rolls by around us. The rain intensifies, but luckily we arrive in Dampierre-en-Bray, where we find shelter at a bike stop. There is a vending machine selling fresh meals and desserts prepared by a local caterer, as well as a microwave, picnic tables, a playground and toilets.

A few metres away, we spot a yellow bicycle outside a house. It’s the Café Vélo Jaune, a quirky café run by a Scottish couple. We go there to warm up and enjoy some hot drinks. The owners are really friendly, and we have warm exchanges with them and a couple of foreign tourists who are on their honeymoon, cycling along the London-Paris Greenway. Memorable encounters!

We cycle the last few kilometres to our bed and breakfast, L’Antre de Gadad in Forges-les-Eaux. We will occupy the three rooms of this pretty red-brick mansion, which is surrounded by a large ornamental garden. In the garden, we are surprised to find little cottages in the style of a witch’s house that can accommodate two people each.

In the evening, the sun comes back out! We take advantage of this break in the weather to set off on foot and explore the spa town of Forges-les-Eaux. It is a pleasant little town with a traditional French market square. We wandered through the town’s charming streets, which are renowned for their thermal springs, and passed by the Porte de Gisors (our starting point for the bike ride!). This majestic facade, located near the casino, originally belonged to a chapel in Gisors in the Eure department. Originally, it was the façade of the chapel of the Carmelite convent, which was built in Gisors in the 17th century.

To end the day on a high, we stop at the Forges Hotel for a drink on the terrace and enjoy the soft evening light and relaxed atmosphere. For dinner, we walk to the Le Vallaha restaurant, which is renowned for its unique Viking-inspired décor.

Day 3: From Forges-les-Eaux to Dieppe (58 km)

We head back along the greenway towards Dieppe, France’s very first seaside resort. This former railway line is open and not surrounded by trees, offering magnificent views of the bocage landscape, with its fields, limestone hills and clay plains.

We notice that the old railway line is wide and in excellent condition — a fact much appreciated by the local inhabitants. Many of its original features remain. The level crossings are clearly marked, and the old gatekeeper’s houses are well maintained. The route is dotted with restaurants and cycle stops equipped with services for cycle tourists, allowing us to take comfortable breaks.

We spot signs encouraging us to take a detour to the town of Neufchâtel-en-Bray. Upon arrival, we see Normandy cows at the roundabout, reminding us that we have reached the town that lends its name to the famous heart-shaped cheese. It is also the oldest Normandy cheese to have received protected designation of origin (PDO) status. Many farms in the surrounding area still produce and sell it in their farm shops. In Graval, the Ferme de la Vallée Haute even offers tours to reveal its production secrets. Before leaving the town, we climb a small hill to reach the mound of the old castle, which offers breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding Bray countryside.

We set off again on the greenway to our next stop: Mesnières-en-Bray. We stop to admire the Château de Mesnières, an exceptional Renaissance-style site which is listed as a historic monument. This visitor and training centre offers accommodation at weekends and during school holidays. Please note that there is also a training restaurant open outside school terms.

We take a break at PN102 (a level crossing, picnic area and tourist information point) in Saint-Aubin-le-Cauf. We check the condition of our tyres using the tyre inflation station provided. From there, we set off to explore the 25 ponds of Petit Launay, a popular spot for anglers and an important bird sanctuary. Then, we hit the road again and cross landscapes marked by piles of sand extracted from the Béthune and Varenne valleys’ quarries and gravel pits.

Next, we visit the ruins of the castle in Arques-la-Bataille, which is perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the valleys of the Varenne, Béthune and Eaulne. After a short but challenging climb, we explore the ruins at our leisure.

As we approach Dieppe, the sea air becomes more noticeable, reminding us that we are in France’s first seaside resort. After settling into our hotel, the Aguado, which is located on the seafront and certified as part of the Accueil Vélo scheme, we are ready to enjoy this coastal town and all it has to offer.

Day 4: Discovering Dieppe

Before catching our train, we spend the morning exploring Dieppe at our leisure. We start off with a stroll through the town centre, wandering through the pedestrianised streets and soaking up the lively and vibrant atmosphere. As we pass the famous Café des Tribunaux, located near the Church of Saint Rémy, we are tempted to sit on its beautiful terrace and enjoy a moment of rest.

Next, we head to the Château de Dieppe, which is perched on a cliff overlooking the sea and the town centre. We take advantage of the esplanade to admire the impressive panorama. Built in the 14th century, Dieppe Castle now houses the local museum. It is renowned for its ivory collection, the largest in France, which bears witness to the town’s rich maritime past and fishing industry.

After this cultural visit, we head down to the seafront to enjoy the beach and the surrounding area. On the way back to the train station, we admire the boats entering and leaving the port. Our bikes will remain at the hotel until the rental company collects them.

Our trip ends in Normandy, but if you wish to continue your cycling adventure to London, note that the ferry departs from a terminal located about 2 km from the train station in the city centre. DFDS Seaways operates several routes, with the crossing generally taking four hours. Bikes are welcome on board, but they must remain in the car park in a designated area during the crossing. Each cyclist must remove their panniers and secure their bike properly to prevent it from tipping over.

You are strongly advised to arrive at the ferry terminal well in advance to avoid any last-minute stress. The terminal, which has been awarded the ‘Accueil Vélo’ label, offers cyclists a comfortable waiting area with showers and secure bike storage. Bon voyage!