The best homemade ice cream and where to find it

This story began when Philippe et Isabelle Cocagne, milk producers based in the Eure, started coming to Honfleur (Calvados) to sell their ice cream. Their shop, just by the famous “ Vieux Bassin”  is packed on fine days and holidays. Their clients speak as one: this is hard to beat. One resident of Evreux declares that it is ice-cream to die for, and the flavours are so very original. He goes for rhubarb himself. Another declares that this has to be the best ice-cream in the world. And why not? It could just be true! Indeed, in 2015 Trip Advisor ranked it among the top ten best ice-cream parlours in France.

If you happen to be passing by Saint-Valery-en-Caux, why not head off to the farm run by Hélène and Arnaud Follet. You are welcome just to look around the farm, but if you come at 5.30pm you can watch the milk parlour at work. The ice creams and sorbets are delicious. One client said: “Every time we come to Normandy we just have to pop into the farm for their ice cream, and it’s such a glorious setting into the bargain! In the summer we take a break on their terrace before going back to Lille…” Recently a big noise in journalism made such a noise about it – it (nearly) got on CNN!

“Delicious Rouen” opened in 2017, to the great delight of all amateurs of ice cream, cakes and soups (the shop also serves savoury dishes). Both trendy and cosy, it offers a wide choice of ice cream with an original range of flavours such as rose, violet, lavender, ginger, and honey: this tea room has just about everything to please every palette. The service is excellent, everyone says so! The fact that the ice creams and sorbets are all organic and gluten-free is a popular plus with punters. There’s a terrace, seating inside, or take-away in pots and cornets if you prefer.

Ice cream-maker Christophe Simard is going to spoil you rotten with his home-made ice creams, crêpes and waffles! Christophe sticks to fresh fruit, “as far as possible purchased from local producers”. He proposes a particularly original range of flavours as this Parisian client affirmed: “Hearty congrats on thinking up so many flavours: pepper and camembert – seriously, it’s really good – tomato and basil, strawberry with fennel….” You might also be tempted by Teurgoule flavour, based on a local dessert, which tastes of cinnamon.

If you really want to wrap your tongue around a seriously good GMO-free ice-cream that’s packed with flavour, you should get along to the Grand Pacey farm where the ice-cream is prepared in the traditional ways with no artificial colourings or flavourings, all ingredients are entirely natural and of the highest quality. The cows are grazing in open pasture for most of the year. Here are some of the flavours to whet your appetite: lychee, rose, raspberry and salted caramel. You can taste these flavours on the spot but don’t forget to bring along an icebox to take some back to where you’re staying; or back home of course! Always ensuring of course that your icebox is up to the task!

“This is really good ice cream, and my favourite is the salted caramel. Not only that but the family are really friendly!” raves Nicole in a recent review. Among the specialties of the Bidard family (Delphine, Hervé and Pascaline) there’s calvados and caramel flavoured ice creams and pear cider sorbet. And while you’re here, you should visit the Lonlay Abbey nearby and the medieval town of Domfront on its rocky outcrop. At Lonlay l’Abbaye, you’re only 20 minutes from Mortain and its waterfalls, which are the highest in western France.