Learn harness racing on Deauville Beach

I’m neither a rider nor a big fan of horse racing, but on my last holiday to Normandy, I found myself gearing up for an exhilarating experience with horses! On the stunning sands of Deauville Beach, at low tide, I discovered the thrilling world of harness racing. Trotting at full speed on a sulky-tandem, I felt the power and grace of the horses like never before. Whether you’re a complete beginner or just curious about this unique sport, it’s the perfect way to dive into something new. The adrenaline rush, combined with the breathtaking coastal scenery, made this an adventure I’ll never forget.

Sulky Expérience, écurie du Petit Paris

Edouard and his team of pro drivers will show you the thrill of harness trotting, on the track at Pennedepie or along the beach. Keep your eyes open in Deauville, you might just spot them in their red jackets, speeding by in their famous sulky-tandems.

As we arrive at Deauville Beach early in the morning, we’re warmly greeted by Édouard, Jennifer, and Lilas, all passionate about horses and harness racing, where ‘drivers’ guide their horses from a two-wheeled cart known as a ‘sulky.’ Traditionally, this equestrian sport has been reserved for professionals who’ve undergone rigorous training, but Édouard had a vision to make it more accessible. He launched Sulky Expérience, offering the public the chance to experience the thrill of harness racing in dual sulkies, two-seater carts pulled by French trotters, the breed specially trained for this sport and predominantly bred in Normandy

Tandem riding

Our horses for the day are called Abuelo du Belver and Desperado Jiel. These trotters have travelled all over France and ridden many of its its racecourses, with several victories to their name. They are just two of the ‘reformed’ horses that have retired from the racing world and now ride for Sulky Expérience.

“We have about ten trotters who pull our sulky tandems,” explains Édouard, whose Écurie du Petit Paris stables are located in Pennedepie, near Honfleur. It’s here, on Normandy’s Flowered Coast, that he crafted the dual sulkies that have become the hallmark of his company. “The driver sits in the back seat and controls the reins, while the second seat at the front… well, that’s where you sit!” Édouard smiles

Fully kitted out and briefed, we’re all reading and raring to go. Jennifer is riding behind Abuelo, while Lilac, Marie-Laure, and Desperado aren’t far behind. We start by heading down to the seashore. “We’ll begin by warming up the horses, then ride up the beach for a few kilometers towards Villers-sur-Mer,” explains Jennifer. “On the way back, we’ll pick up speed along the wet sandbank.” Exciting! The thrill of racing on the beach is just around the corner.

At a Full Trot!

The pace gradually picks up, but our two trotters for the day, Abuelo and Desperado, haven’t yet given their all. After a walk in the sea (a great way to help the horses recover), our drivers prepare to turn back. I can sense the moment has arrived, and it seems the horses feel it too. Jennifer gives Lilac a smile and signals, ‘Shall we go?’ Then, everything accelerates. The horses lengthen their stride and reach a thrilling speed, close to 50 km/h, it seems! The sound of hooves pounding the ground, the rush of speed, the power emanating from the horses—it’s exhilarating, intoxicating, and we are loving it. ‘This is just crazy,’ Mary says, equally on a high. Of course, the Prix d’Amérique (the most prestigious trotting competition) is still a long way off, but I’ll remember this harness racing experience for a long time. What a feeling!

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A unique Place

Deauville Beach

In the early morning, almost 365 days a year, Deauville beach becomes a playground for horses, whether trotters or gallopers. At low tide, horses and riders make the most of the long stretch of beach to train and the healing properties of the sea to recover.

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